The main cell is glued and gooped.  It’s all PVC, the long clear pipe is also PVC.  Clear PVC is a little expensive, but I got it from Aquatic Eco Systems, and it was cut to size.  I have decided that this design is not good, in that there is way too much space above the water line.  It will be dangerous to have a space with that much gas.  It’s adequate for experimentation, but it will have to be redone before I hook up any type of delivery.  I’ll probably saw it off right on the top of the clear tube and figure something to make the entire top of the cell a blowout.  This won’t be easy as I still need to hook in the delivery pipe, dial pressure gauge, and one or two pressure switches.  The water level float switch is also not yet installed, that will go into the side of the clear PVC.  I might use two float switches, one for ‘add water’ and one for ‘low water disable’.

Here are the tubes with the wires attached and gooped, inner tubes in place.  These are seamless 316 tubes from OnlineMetals.com 12″ long.  They were a little pricey, but I didn’t have to recut them.  I wire brushed them a bit, especially the outside of the inner tubes, and I used a modified wire pipe brush and a hand drill to scrub the insides of the pipes.  The outer tubes are 1″ outer diameter, the inner tubes are 3/4″ diameter, all are 16 gauge (0.065″ thick).  This calculates to about a 1.5 millimeter gap between inner and outer tubes.  This has left me with an unexpected problem in that the inner tubes acoustically ring a lower pitch than the outer tubes. For this reason, the tubes have not yet been slotted and tuned.

Bottom of tubes with wires

26-JUL-2008 The test cell dry assembly.  That’s a weird power supply I found in the basement, 28 VDC at least an amp, along with the PWM.


Here is a bi-filar coil I wound with 24 gauge magnet wire on a ferrite rod type 33, 3/8″ diameter by 4″ long.  I didn’t count the turns, I just did one ‘ply’ as far across as it would go, but it’s pretty tight and I think I did a good job.  The raw rod and the finished coil are wrapped in 3M Scotch 92 tape, a polyimide ‘kapton’ tape with a 7500 volt dielectric rating. My cheap new meter says it’s about 190uH on the one side with the lead attached, I assume the other side is the same. If I hook the end leads together, the two coils combined measure -11uH. Not sure how that works, but that makes the field reverse half way through, and the meter only cost $76.  Maybe the other side is closer to 200uH.  It’s my belief that this coil will be too small for production use, so I have more ferrites on the way.

Inductor

11 Responses to “WFC Construction”
  1. Helper catz are helping.

  2. Ivan Vadinof says:

    Looks good. Looks like a bong – but that’s good.

  3. Ivan Vadinof says:

    BTW, any reason you made it quite so tall? It kind of dwarfs your pipes…

  4. I wasn’t sure at first, but the labeling helped. That is indeed a cat butt.

  5. I can load it with more pipes later, or I can saw it off when I make mistakes. The bubblers will also be of significant size. I also have more stuffs to install on it, float switch, pressure switch, pressure gauge… and I wanted a comfortable amount of real estate on which to mount them (I could have eliminated the ‘Y’ at the top).

    Not just any cat butt… an ORANGE cat butt. The arrow indicates the approximate location of Lumbar-4, also known as the “butt up” button.

    EDIT: I’m now worried about the amount of space at the top. It’s that much more to explode. I may take steps to reduce this, or… TEST IT!

  6. I have looked at you tube assembly. Is the orange goop HIGH -TEMP RTV SILICONE gasket maker?? If it is, it will not hold; mine fell off on my single test tube. Nothing will hold or stick to Stainless Steel such as silicone, etc. or maybe my silicone is too old.
    The tubing size looks Great. I’m using the 18″ set up too.

  7. The little orange chunks used as the tube separators are bits of a sheet of plumber’s rubber I had laying around, it’s good for dampening vibrating equipment (like computer cooling pumps). They are only 12″ tubes. And NO, it’s probably not a good enough grade of silicone, it’s ‘premium tub and tile’. Thank you for your comment, we shall see!

  8. Yes! I have succeeded in causing a failure! It’s confirmed… the silicone I used is garbage. Any goop that is “water clean up” probably won’t work. I shall have to buy a big honking tube of *real* acetic acid based RTV. I’m becoming increasingly less worried about appearance, so I’m not sure I care what it looks like… just don’t want the silly cookie sliding off the tubes any more. I’ll post another picture of this failure soon.

  9. I have read every line of your project, I am very impressed. Have you heard about the chokes being wound first on the Toroid, then primary and then secondary, secondary positive lead through diode to chokes, PS chokes are made of 430 SS magnet wire, spiral wrapped in opposed direction. then next thing to think about is chokes and cell as a tank circuit. then, there is still the part of proper cell conditioning. I am seeing great promise from my cell and lawton setup, still trying to figure out how to control the lawton pwm with a PLL. I have already had lots and lots of near misses. maybe i should close my eyes next time. PS. good luck trying to find that 430FR SS .oo4 mag wire. I still have not found any. I am looking into high speed solenoid manufacturers for information. tc and good luck. DL

  10. Thanks! I wish I could say I’m winding toroids. I also wish I had $20K to buy a good commercial-quality toroid winder. I’m going to see if I can put 5 windings on a pair of PowerLite C-cores. Incidentally, I’m not really testing with this big set of tubes any more, I’m just using one short set in a small ‘test’ cell. I figure that if the PLL circuit can lock on that, then getting it to work with a matched set of tubes shouldn’t be too much worse.

  11. CreativeEnergy24 says:

    Good info but/ I am looking for 3/8″x4″ or 8″ long ferrite rods to wind, if you have a cheap source I would greatly appreciate it.
    regards, Mike

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